NOTATION LOG DATED: June 18, 2009
LOCATION: Mary Khadekin house, Benito, Manitoba
“…….My trip from the “dreaming spot” of yesterday, near our former farmstead, took me along a nostalgic journey as well as to a virtually new area where I have not travelled before.
So I carried on from that corner 2 miles east and 2 miles north of Pelly, and travelled east, 3 miles to a bridge over the Swan River. On my left, I passed sites of the former Doukhobor settlements in 1899. Some telltale original barns still stand defiantly on the north slope of Swan River.
I passed the Jim Vanin homestead where my friend Harry lived with brother Phillip, Leo and sister Vera. I used to walk over there on Sundays and visit and sometimes we would walk over to the bridge where local people gathered for swimming and picnicking in the 1948 – 50 era. The old house and out-buildings stand leaning downhill and to the northeast. Obviously, the original builders didn’t compact the base well enough on the downhill side where settlement likely took place. The buildings were always sheathed with shiplap and it was rare to use diagonal bracing in those days. The buildings had served the original Owners well and now have no purpose since their occupants have passed on.
Past the bridge, the developed and maintained road passes straight north for 4 miles to an intersection of a grid road going east and west. I chose east in the direction of Arran. I couldn’t help noticing the farm houses on this one time important intersection. Both were two storey buildings built by some proud Farmer, but now are leaning to the Northeast. It is quite likely that water drained off the roof on the north side that would not dry out as the sun would heat the southeast corner and the southwest side. Rotting would begin since the foundations were likely stones covered with natural ground since concrete would be expensive and little known at that time.
My eyes lit up about 3 miles east along this grid road when I passed a historic site with a sign “Podolia School” on the right side. The locals must have improved the grounds as I recall the school being moved to Pelly back in 1954. I had never been here but I had heard so many people talk about it since it was a popular and enthusiastic Ukrainian community at one time with many dances on weekends, sports days, ball tournaments, etc.
What was disappointing and sad is that no one occupied any of these buildings nor seemed to reside on the farms anymore. The roads are all maintained gravel surfaced and raised high to permit snow drifting over and beyond so that little, if any snow plowing would be necessary. Just when mankind developed methods to keep all season access to the farms open and passable, everyone chooses to live in urban communities now. There is no need to stay on the farm as there is no sign of cattle, pigs, chickens, geese, ducks, horses and all other animals that a Farmer used to raise and needed to care regularly. No one wants to do this anymore.
I understand that now a “small farm” is about 3,000 acres as an economic unit. It ranges upward to 40,000 acres or more for a corporate Farmer. Let’s understand that a 3,000 acre farm (using 80% tilled land), represents 10 sections at 360 acres each. This means that a “small farm” about 10 square miles. In my day (1958), the average small Farmer owned about ¾ section or ¾ square miles. So now 1 family farms what over 13 families used to make a living on in the past.
What a travesty! This explains why there is no more rural population left and all the smaller communities are disappearing.
Just think about it, the 40,000 acre farm is really 133 1/3 sections or square miles approximately. There used to be 177 families in that space or based on 3 persons to a family, or 531 people. This represents a small village with schools, stores, etc., that does not exist anymore
War was never that devastating!
It boggles my mind to understand the impetus behind destroying the “small farm” unit. These were the people who tilled the land in the first instance and produced a “mixed” farming yield. Someone needs to explain what is so efficient and that Canada produces more now that we have pushed the people off the land, where they were environmentally clean, to urban settlements with all its problems of sewage treatment, water purification issues and don’t forget about the increased crime. The children have nothing to do in the city and so entertainment is doing something they should not rather than the hundred or so pursuits that are available in the rural scene.
With all this thinking, I arrive in the small hamlet of Arran. The 4 former elevators are gone, the school is shut down and what are left are a few weather beaten buildings along a deserted street.
Ah yes, the hotel appears to be still open where I snuck in for a beer when I was 15 back in 1954. Nothing here has changed except that there was no one in the bar. “No, we don’t have any beer on tap”, the chunky lady advised me after she walked out of somewhere. The waitress in the adjacent Coffee Shop (3 small tables and 3 guys having coffee) had called her out.
“Okay, I will have a Kookanee (I noticed that advertisement on the wall about having this proud product from Creston, B.C), then”, I replied. There was progress as this bar knew what good beer was all about.
Yes, the old Catholic Church still stands along with adjacent Hall where many Ukrainian weddings have been enjoyed by the Parishioners over the years. Yes, I remembered them along with the bountiful tables laden with peorogies, duck, goose, pork, holipschi, hams and all kinds of Ukrainian delicacies. Yes, then the “Harelka” in disguised teapots, as ”Harbatee” (tea).
I leave the dilapidated houses that used to be residences of some very pretty girls as I recall with a smile and I enter Highway 49 and turn left to Benito, Manitoba.
There are still some Farmers living on their farms on this stretch of highway along with the remains of others that indicate a happier and more productive time. I pass over what I used to believe to be a ‘large” creek, Bear Creek and then see the sign to Vesna Road. Oh yes, that brings back more memories of dances in my time.
Vesna Hall dances used to be entertained by a fiddle, guitar, accordion and if the Sponsor could afford it, some drums. The repertoire was very Western with some “Rock” creeping in. The girls were usually sitting with their backs to the band, looking to the door to see what “hunks” may walk in from the preoccupation with a few “bracing shots”, so that enough courage can be advanced to actually ask one of these girls to dance (that is assuming that one knew how to dance). When the boys did drift in, they usually formed a stag line with each pushing the other forward to the embarrassment of the hapless guy. Soon, it would all unfold and dancing did take place and sometimes, partnerships for the evening would evolve.
One must remember that once you cross that floor to ask a girl to dance, you need to be sure that she would. So “eye contact” was the communication necessary to ensure “success”. A rejection could precipitate a “domino effect” with other girls not wanting to be a “second fiddle”. The pressure that befell a guy at this social event was unreal. I recall it well! This should have been recorded on a video as the audience, today, would think it all hilarious.
Sometimes the stag line would erupt in a fight. Usually a guy is “unsteady” after being outside too long and the lights within the Hall can be blinding. An unintentional (sometimes intentional) brush into another guy, who may also be having problems standing erect, could easily erupt to “who in the hell do you think you are?” With a response of “what’s it to you?” The rest of the guys, sensing entertainment, would push them outside to settle it.
Sometime later, they both come back in after resolving the dispute with a few bruises and a conciliatory drink or two and the scene could repeat itself.
Now I have arrived in Benito. The elevators are gone too. A large sign near the curling rink announces “Home of the Wrench”, the world class Curler from Benito that took a world title in curling.
Benito seems to hold its own as there are new houses along with the well-maintained older houses. The main street has only one small grocery, a building supply store and a restaurant that is open sometimes. Some of the other establishments try to eke out a business while most of the populace travel the 40 km to Swan River which has all the services, high school, restaurants, motels, etc., of a bustling community of about 4,000.
Then I arrive at sister Mary’s place. John and her built it in about 1960 and Mary will likely be there until she passes on as her love for John and her memories linger within that house even though 25 years have passed.
Mary will always be Mary, a loving sister and always ready to receive family and friends.
The usual hospitality, a good night’s sleep and now I am awaiting Mary to wake up and wash and do her special breakfast. I have already finished my 3rd cup of coffee.
I am due to return to the White Sand Retreat right after breakfast….………….”
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Elmer Verigin 